Reference

Active ingredients

Reference entries on compounds frequently found in dermocosmetics and food supplements sold in parapharmacies. Each covers properties, typical uses, regulatory status, an evidence summary, and known contraindications.

• Niacinamide (vitamin B3)INCI name, function, typical concentrations in dermocosmetics, regulatory status under Regulation 1223/2009, and evidence summary.
• Hyaluronic acidHyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate in cosmetics: function as a humectant, molecular-weight considerations, regulatory status, and what the evidence supports.
• Salicylic acidA cosmetic and medicinal substance: restrictions under Annex III of Regulation 1223/2009, SCCS opinions, and the boundary between cosmetic and drug use.
• Retinol & retinoidsA cosmetic vitamin A derivative: SCCS opinions, EU concentration limits under Annex III, and the distinction from prescription retinoids.
• Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)L-ascorbic acid and its cosmetic derivatives: function, stability challenges, and regulatory status.
• Zinc oxideAn inorganic UV filter under Annex VI of Regulation 1223/2009: nano and non-nano forms, SCCS opinions, and use in sunscreens and infant care.
• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)The alcohol form of vitamin B5: humectant and skin-conditioning function, use across skin, scalp and infant care, and regulatory status.
• GlycerinGlycerin (glycerol) as a cosmetic humectant: ubiquity in modern cosmetics, pharmacopoeial and food-supplement grades, and high tolerability.
• CeramidesA class of skin lipids used in dermocosmetic moisturisers: ceramide NP, AP, EOP and others, their role in the stratum corneum, and regulatory status.
• Centella asiaticaA botanical cosmetic ingredient: active triterpenes (asiaticoside, madecassoside), use in dermocosmetics, and regulatory status under Regulation 1223/2009.
• Azelaic acidA dicarboxylic acid with cosmetic and medicinal uses: the cosmetic/medicine boundary, which turns on presentation and function, not a set concentration, and regulatory status under EU and national rules.
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)Glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids as cosmetic exfoliants: SCCNFP position papers, advisory concentration and pH figures, and how EU cosmetic law applies to them.
• Vitamin D (cholecalciferol)Vitamin D in food supplements: permitted forms, µg/IU conversion, EFSA upper intake levels, authorised claims and the boundary with medicines.
• MagnesiumMagnesium salts in food supplements and cosmetics: permitted forms, elemental labelling, the 250 mg supplemental upper level and authorised claims.
• ZincZinc in food supplements: permitted forms, the 25 mg upper level, authorised claims and the effect on copper status.
• IronIron in food supplements: permitted forms, EFSA's 40 mg safe level, authorised claims and the risks of overdose and overload.
• Omega-3 fatty acids (EPA and DHA)Why EPA and DHA fall outside the positive lists, EFSA's 5 g and 1 g figures, authorised claims and heart-rhythm warnings.
• MelatoninA substance with no single EU status: medicine in some countries, supplement in others, with two authorised claims.