Ingredients

Ceramides

Ceramides are a family of lipids that form a major structural component of the stratum corneum. Synthetic and bio-identical ceramides have become a standard ingredient in dermocosmetic moisturisers positioned for sensitive, atopic-prone and barrier-impaired skin.

At a glance

INCI names

Ceramide NP (previously Ceramide 3); Ceramide AP (previously Ceramide 6 II); Ceramide EOP (previously Ceramide 1); Ceramide NS (previously Ceramide 2); Ceramide AS, Ceramide NDS, Ceramide EOS, and others

Chemical class

Sphingolipids — amides of a long-chain sphingoid base with a fatty acid

Regulatory class

Cosmetic ingredients (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009)

Cosmetic function

Skin conditioning; barrier-supportive emollient

What they are

Ceramides are a structurally diverse family of sphingolipids. In human skin, ceramides together with cholesterol and free fatty acids make up the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum, the layered architecture that gives the outermost epidermis its barrier function. The skin contains many distinct ceramide species, distinguished by the structure of the sphingoid base (sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine) and by the fatty-acid chain attached.

The current INCI nomenclature for ceramides identifies each species by letter codes describing its structural components, replacing the earlier numbered system (Ceramide 1, 2, 3, etc.). Ceramide NP, for example, denotes a ceramide built on phytosphingosine ("P") with a non-hydroxy fatty acid ("N"); Ceramide AP, an alpha-hydroxy fatty acid on phytosphingosine, and so on.

How they are used in parapharmacy products

Ceramides appear in leave-on moisturisers, lotions and creams positioned for sensitive or atopic-prone skin, in lip products, in some cleansers, and in scalp and hair products. Concentrations in finished products are typically below 1% but vary widely; ceramides are often combined in finished products with cholesterol and free fatty acids in proportions intended to mirror the stratum-corneum lipid composition, on the rationale of providing the substrate for endogenous lamellar reorganisation. The CosIng entries for individual ceramide INCI names list skin-conditioning and related functions.

Regulatory status

Ceramides are not subject to specific restrictions in the Annexes of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. As with any cosmetic ingredient, their use is subject to the general safety requirement and to inclusion in the safety assessment for the finished product. The INCI naming system used for ceramides — and for all cosmetic ingredients in the EU — is maintained by industry through Personal Care Products Council with European Commission acceptance for use in CosIng.

Evidence summary

The role of endogenous ceramides in skin-barrier function is well-established at the level of skin biology and is documented in dermatological textbooks and review literature. The cosmetic-product evidence — that topical application of ceramide-containing finished formulations supports measures of skin hydration and perceived skin smoothness — is best characterised as supported by clinical work in dermocosmetic populations, although the effect of any specific finished product depends on its formulation, vehicle, ceramide composition and other ingredients. Cosmetic claims related to ceramides must comply with Regulation 655/2013 and must not present the product as a treatment of disease.

This site does not provide treatment advice. For the management of dermatological conditions such as atopic dermatitis, the appropriate advice is from a physician (dermatologist) or a pharmacist; cosmetic ceramide-containing moisturisers are not a substitute for medical care.

Safety and known considerations

Topical ceramides at the concentrations used in cosmetics have a favourable tolerability profile. Allergic contact dermatitis is uncommon. Many ceramide-containing formulations are positioned for sensitive skin and are accompanied by tolerance-testing on suitable populations as part of the cosmetic product safety report under Article 10 of the Regulation.

Last reviewed: May 2026.