Terminology

How to read an INCI ingredient list

An EU cosmetic product label declares its full ingredient list using the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). The INCI list, mandatory under Article 19 of Regulation 1223/2009, follows a small set of rules that, once known, make any cosmetic label legible.

What INCI is

INCI is a standardised naming system for cosmetic ingredients, developed by the Personal Care Products Council and accepted by the European Commission as the reference nomenclature on EU cosmetic labels. The naming conventions are partly anglophone (the names are usually English-language Latin-derived chemical names, even on French, Italian or Spanish labels) and partly botanical (for plant-derived ingredients, the Linnaean Latin binomial is used).

Where the list appears

Article 19(1)(g) of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 requires the list to be preceded by the word "Ingredients" (in any EU official language, though "Ingredients" alone is permitted), or by the international symbol shown in the Annex VII guidance (a hand pointing to an open book — the "i in a circle" symbol that is often seen on small product packages). The list itself appears on the container, the packaging, or in the case of small packages on an accompanying leaflet.

The order: descending to 1%

Ingredients are listed in descending order of weight, from the highest concentration down to 1% by mass of the finished product. Ingredients present at or below 1% may be listed in any order. This means the top of the list is informative on a relative basis ("there is more glycerin than there is sodium hyaluronate"), while the bottom of the list — typically including preservatives, fragrances, colorants and many actives — is in no specific order.

Some brands publish "concentration percentages" of specific actives in their marketing literature. These percentages are not declared on the label itself under EU rules and should be treated as brand-supplied information whose verification is part of the brand's regulatory obligations.

Naming conventions

• Chemical substances are named by their INCI name (for example, Tocopherol for vitamin E, Niacinamide for vitamin B3 amide, Sodium Hyaluronate for the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid).
• Plant extracts are named by the Linnaean Latin binomial of the plant, optionally followed by the plant part used and the word "extract" or similar (for example, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract).
• Colorants are usually given by their CI (Colour Index) number — for example, CI 77891 for titanium dioxide as a colorant. Decorative cosmetics may list several CI numbers separated by slashes ("may contain": these are alternative colorants used across different shades of a make-up range).

Fragrance and the allergen list

Fragrance compositions are typically listed under the umbrella INCI term Parfum or Fragrance. However, certain individual fragrance constituents identified as common allergens must be listed by name when present above defined concentration thresholds — historically 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products, with an expanded list adopted by Commission Regulation amending Annex III in 2023 (Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545) coming into application on a phased timetable. The result is that fragranced products often carry, at the end of their INCI lists, a series of named substances such as Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol. These are the fragrance allergens declared under Annex III. Their declaration is not, by itself, a safety concern: it is information that supports the recognition of fragrances that have caused contact allergy in some users.

Nanomaterials

Where an ingredient is used in nanomaterial form, the INCI name must be followed by the term "(nano)" in brackets, under Article 19(1)(g). The common example is Titanium Dioxide (nano) or Zinc Oxide (nano) in some sunscreens.

Symbols that may appear with the INCI list

• Period-after-opening symbol — an open jar with a number followed by "M" (for example, 12M): the period in months during which the product remains in good condition after opening.
• Batch code — required under Article 19(1)(f); a code permitting the manufacturer to identify the production batch.
• Asterisk (*) — sometimes used to indicate ingredients from certified organic farming, when accompanied by an explanatory note referring to a private organic certification scheme. The asterisk is not a regulated cosmetic symbol; its meaning is the brand's and is defined in adjacent text.
• +/- — used in colour cosmetics in the colorant list to indicate "may contain", typically before a list of CI numbers used across shade variants.

The CosIng database

The European Commission's CosIng database is the operational reference for INCI names, their reported cosmetic functions, and their regulatory status in the Annexes of Regulation 1223/2009. It is publicly accessible and searchable by INCI name, CAS number or chemical function. CosIng is not a substitute for the Regulation itself: where a substance is restricted under Annex III, the binding text of Annex III on EUR-Lex prevails. CosIng is, however, the most accessible starting point for looking up an INCI name encountered on a label.

What the INCI list does not tell you

The INCI list identifies what is in the product, in approximate descending order down to 1%. It does not tell you:

• The exact concentration of any specific ingredient.
• Whether the product is appropriate for a specific person's skin or condition.
• The clinical effectiveness of the product.
• Whether any specific ingredient causes adverse reactions in any individual.

This site does not give product or treatment advice. For questions about ingredient sensitivities or about whether a product is appropriate in a specific situation, the appropriate advice is from a pharmacist or a physician (dermatologist).

Last reviewed: May 2026.