Parapharmacy.org

A reference on parapharmacy in Europe

Ingredients

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid used at low concentrations as a cosmetic ingredient and at higher concentrations as an active substance in medicinal products. In the EU it sits at one of the classic boundaries between cosmetic and medicinal regulation.

At a glance

INCI name
Salicylic Acid
Chemical name
2-Hydroxybenzoic acid
CAS number
69-72-7
Regulatory class
Cosmetic ingredient under Annex III and Annex V of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; also a medicinal active substance at higher concentrations
Cosmetic function
Anti-dandruff agent, preservative, skin-conditioning (use is concentration- and intended-use-dependent under Annex III)

What it is

Salicylic acid is a small phenolic carboxylic acid related to the plant compound salicin and to the medicinal substance acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin). It is lipid-soluble — in cosmetic literature it is described as a "beta-hydroxy acid" or BHA — which is the property that distinguishes it from the water-soluble alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic and lactic acid.

How it is used in parapharmacy products

In cosmetic products, salicylic acid appears principally in two contexts: as a labelled active for keratolytic / exfoliating function in leave-on facial products (typically at concentrations between roughly 0.5% and 2%), and at lower concentrations (up to 0.5%) as a preservative listed in Annex V of Regulation 1223/2009. The legal basis for higher (above 0.5%) concentrations of salicylic acid in cosmetic products is Annex III of the Regulation, which sets concentration limits and conditions of use depending on the type of product.

At medicinal concentrations — typically much higher, in some cases up to 50% in topical preparations for the removal of warts — salicylic acid is regulated as a medicinal product, not as a cosmetic, and is reserved to the channels appropriate for medicines (pharmacy, in most EU jurisdictions).

Regulatory status

Salicylic acid is listed in Annex III of Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 with concentration limits that depend on the type of cosmetic product (rinse-off hair products, other rinse-off products, leave-on products) and with required cautionary statements. It is also listed in Annex V as an authorised preservative (under specific conditions and at lower concentrations).

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has issued opinions on the safety of salicylic acid as a cosmetic ingredient, taking into account exposure across the various product types in which it is used. These opinions form the scientific basis of the Annex III restrictions, which the European Commission updates as the science evolves.

An additional consideration applies to children: certain salicylic acid uses are restricted in children's products and are subject to "not to be used in children" or equivalent warnings. The current text of Annex III on EUR-Lex should be consulted for the precise conditions.

Evidence summary

The use of salicylic acid as a cosmetic exfoliant for textural and tone-related concerns is best characterised as supported by clinical use and a body of trials, although individual product effects depend strongly on formulation. The keratolytic action — disruption of corneocyte cohesion in the upper stratum corneum — is well-described mechanistically.

At medicinal concentrations, salicylic acid has long-established use in topical dermatology for keratinisation disorders and for the treatment of warts. This site does not provide treatment advice; for the management of any skin condition, the appropriate advice is from a pharmacist or a physician.

Safety and known considerations

Topical salicylic acid at cosmetic concentrations is generally well tolerated in healthy adult skin, although it can cause stinging, transient erythema or dryness, particularly in sensitive skin or when combined with other exfoliants. Photosensitivity has been reported in some users with regular exfoliating use, with a corresponding recommendation in many product instructions to use daytime sun protection. Cumulative or extensive systemic exposure to high topical concentrations of salicylic acid — for example, application of medicinal-strength preparations over large skin areas — can lead to salicylate toxicity; this is a medicinal-product safety question outside the cosmetic regime.

Children's products, products intended for use on damaged or inflamed skin, and use during pregnancy are particular cases. Cosmetic labelling under EU law requires the conditions of safe use, including any restriction on the population for whom the product is suitable, to appear on the label.

References & further reading

  1. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annexes III and V — consolidated text on EUR-Lex: eur-lex.europa.eu.
  2. SCCS opinions on salicylic acid: health.ec.europa.eu/scientific-committees/sccs.
  3. CosIng entry for Salicylic Acid: ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing.

Last reviewed: May 2026.